Hidden behind thick walls, the city’s historic courtyards lie dormant. But on the first, second, and third weekends of Advent, they reveal themselves in all their splendor. Lovingly decorated, they then shine and sparkle in a sea of lights. Christmas enthusiasts and creative artisans offer their wares here—a colorful kaleidoscope of Christmas gift ideas and culinary delights. When the historic gates open, the moment has arrived: it’s Advent in the courtyards of a thousand-year-old city.


